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   <title>Woodworkers Resource Blog</title>
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   <id>tag:www.woodworkersresource.com,2008:/blog//2</id>
   <updated>2008-11-17T01:43:03Z</updated>
   
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<entry>
   <title>Back From the Woodworking in America Conference</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.woodworkersresource.com/blog/back-from-the-woodworking-in-america-conference/" />
   <id>tag:www.woodworkersresource.com,2008:/blog//2.218</id>
   
   <published>2008-11-17T00:17:57Z</published>
   <updated>2008-11-17T01:43:03Z</updated>
   
   <summary>I made it back home from Berea, KY this afternoon safe and sound with my head spinning from all the great classes that I got to attend. If I had to come up with one word for my experience over...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[I made it back home from Berea, KY this afternoon safe and sound with my head spinning from all the great classes that I got to attend.  If I had to come up with one word for my experience over the past three days it would be, INCREDIBLE!  <p>Here's a list of the classes that I attended:<p><ul>
	<li>Chair Design:  Brian Boggs</li>
</ul><ul>
	<li>Dovetailing:  Pins vs. Tails:  Frank Klausz, Roy Underhill</li>
</ul><ul>
	<li>Understanding Sharpening Media:  Ron Hock, Joel Moskowitz, Robin Lee</li>
</ul><ul>
	<li>Understanding Western Saws:  Mike Wenzloff, Joel Moskowitz, Christopher Schwarz</li>
</ul><ul>
	<li>Bevel-Up vs. Bevel-Down Planes:  Robin Lee, Thomas Lie-Nielsen, Christopher Schwarz</li>
</ul><ul>
	<li>Forgotten Workbenches and Workholding:  Christopher Schwarz</li>
</ul><ul>
	<li>Mortise and Tenon:  Three Solid Methods:  Frank Klausz, Mike Dunbar, Roy Underhill</li>
</ul><ul>
	<li>Scrapers:  History, Preparation and Use:  Christopher Schwarz</li>
</ul><ul>
	<li>Bench Planes:  Deneb Puchalski, Ron Hock</li>
</ul><ul>
	<li>Saw Sharpening:  Mike Wenzloff</li>
</ul>Can you see why my head is spinning?!?<p>And guess what, I captured it all on video!  I'll be editing and putting up the video over the next few weeks, so stay tuned.<p>While I was there somebody ask me what the best part of my time had been.  I can honestly say that as much as I enjoyed the classes the absolute best part of my three days in Berea was getting to meet so many enthusiastic woodworkers.  The place was absolutely buzzing with excitement the whole time.<p>I appreciate all the folks who came up and told me they enjoyed my website and the interviews that I've been doing with the instructors over the past few months.  Thanks for taking the time to do that, it meant a lot!<p>Another really cool thing that I got to do was to hang out and talk with many of the other bloggers out there on the Net.  Folks like <a href="http://mattswoodshop.libsyn.com/">Matt Vanderlist</a>, <a href="http://furnitude.blogspot.com/">Mitch Roberson</a>, <a href="http://sandal-woodsblog.com/">Al Navas</a>, <a href="http://furnitology.blogspot.com/index.html">Neil Lamens</a> and <a href="http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.com/">Kari Hultman</a>.  I encourage you to visit each of these sites for more information about the conference and to get their unique perspective.<p>]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>Interview with Joel Moskowitz</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.woodworkersresource.com/blog/interview-with-joel-moskowitz/" />
   <id>tag:www.woodworkersresource.com,2008:/blog//2.219</id>
   
   <published>2008-11-15T00:50:49Z</published>
   <updated>2008-11-18T01:00:48Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Joel Moskowitz is the owner of Gramercy Tools, makers of premium hand tools such as handsaws, brushes, holdfasts, and much more. He also runs a successful retail business in Brooklyn, NY under the name Tools for Working Wood. However, Joel&apos;s...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[Joel Moskowitz is the owner of <a href="http://gramercytools.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&amp;Store_Code=toolshop&amp;Category_Code=CGT">Gramercy Tools</a>,
makers of premium hand tools such as handsaws, brushes, holdfasts, and
much more. He also runs a successful retail business in Brooklyn, NY
under the name <a href="http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=d76412e76e71b9a835470a0dd317ce8f&amp;Screen=SFNT&amp;Store_Code=toolshop">Tools for Working Wood</a>.  However, Joel's first business in the woodworking world came as a virtual woodworking museum called what else but <a href="http://www.antiquetools.com/">Museum of Woodworking Tools.</a>
This site has an incredible amount of information on woodworking tools,
and just like any museum, the "displays" are constantly changing. <p>In our interview we discuss:</p><ul><li>Joel's interest in the history of tools.</li></ul><ul><li>His first job out of college designing tools for Black &amp; Decker.</li></ul><ul><li>How the Museum of Woodworking Tools was developed simply as a demo for another job.</li></ul><ul><li>Popular Woodworking Magazine has picked several of Gramercy Tool's as <a href="http://popularwoodworking.com/article/Best_New_Tools_of_2008">"Best New Tools"</a> for the year including their Crosscut Carcase saw as a 2008 winner </li></ul><ul><li>Joel's collection of woodworking books and catalogs (one the best in the world)!</li></ul><ul><li>What Joel sees happening in the hand tool market in the next 10 years.</li></ul>To listen to the interview go <a href="http://www.woodworkersresource.com/content/woodworking_in_america_conference/index.html">here</a><br /><br />We'd love to hear back from you.&nbsp; Leave your questions or comments below.<br /><br />(I just got back from the Woodworking in America Conference in Berea, KY where Gramercy Tools had a booth.&nbsp; I ordered a pair of their holdfast and can't wait to get them.&nbsp; Chris Schwarz says for the money these are the best holdfast out there.&nbsp;&nbsp; I let you know more when a get mine.)<br /><br />
]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>Interview with Dave Jeske</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.woodworkersresource.com/blog/interview-with-dave-jeske/" />
   <id>tag:www.woodworkersresource.com,2008:/blog//2.220</id>
   
   <published>2008-11-14T01:01:40Z</published>
   <updated>2008-11-18T01:08:41Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Blue Spruce Toolworks was started in 2002 by Dave Jeske. In that short amount of time, Dave has made quite a name for his company, and more importantly, for the tools that he makes. The first tool that Dave made...</summary>
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      <![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.bluesprucetoolworks.com/index.htm">Blue Spruce Toolworks</a>
was started in 2002 by Dave Jeske. In that short amount of time, Dave
has made quite a name for his company, and more importantly, for the
tools that he makes. </p><p>The first tool that Dave made was a
marking knife. This knife is designed specifically for smaller scale
precision joinery. This little marking knife was bought by Christopher
Schwarz and is now one of his favorite tools. To me, that's high
praise. Then in the May/June issue of Fine Woodworking Magazine, the
Blue Spruce marking knife was vote "Best Overall" in a line up of 15
other marking knives. </p><p>Dave has also expanded his line of tools to include mallets, awls, dovetail chisels, and more.</p><p>In our interview with Dave you'll get to hear:</p><ul><li>How Dave's background in engineering and specifically working with metal helped launch his new career.</li></ul><ul><li>Why Dave chose a marking knife as his first tool to produce.</li></ul><ul><li>What lead him to give up his engineering job to become a full-time tool maker.</li></ul><ul><li>What keeps him motivated to put in the long hours needed to run a successful business (other than his mortgage!)</li></ul><ul><li>Insight into what it's like to strike out on your own:  Things he expected and some things that he didn't.</li></ul><p>Dave also talks about a new tool line that he's working on.
He's tight lipped about it during the interview, but he hopes to unveil
it at this year's Woodworking in America Conference. When I learn about
it, you'll be the first to know. Stay tuned!</p><p>To listen to the interview go <a href="http://www.woodworkersresource.com/content/woodworking_in_america_conference/index.html">here</a>.<br /></p><p>(Just found out at the Woodworking in America Conference that Dave's new tool line is a set of Bench Chisels.&nbsp; These are just as beautiful as his dovetail chisels with a much thicker blade to withstand the abuse of mallet work.)</p><p>We'd love to hear from you.&nbsp; Leave any questions or comments about our interview with Dave below.&nbsp; <br /></p><p>Craig<br /></p>]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>Preventing Burn Marks on Cherry and Maple</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.woodworkersresource.com/blog/preventing-burn-marks-on-cherry-and-maple/" />
   <id>tag:www.woodworkersresource.com,2008:/blog//2.217</id>
   
   <published>2008-11-10T01:32:05Z</published>
   <updated>2008-11-10T01:50:06Z</updated>
   
   <summary><![CDATA[I received a great question from Ray the other day and I though I'd share my response with you.&nbsp; Here's Ray's question:&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;I have a question more than a comment. I read somewhere that you can clean up saw burn marks...]]></summary>
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      <![CDATA[I received a great question from Ray the other day and I though I'd share my response with you.&nbsp; Here's Ray's question:<br /><br />&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;<br /><br /><i>I have a question more than a comment. I read somewhere that you can clean up saw burn marks in cherry using, I thought, mineral spirits. It doesn't work. Do you know of anything that can be used?<br /><br />Thanks<br />Ray,</i><br /><br />&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;<br /><br />The only thing that will truly get rid of all the burn marks caused from saw blades (or router bits) is to remove the material either by planing, sanding, or scraping.&nbsp; I prefer using a smoothing plane if the area is flat and scraping other areas.&nbsp; Sand paper is a last resort simply because it takes forever to remove enough material.<br /><br />There is one other way to get rid of burn marks and that's to prevent it from happening.&nbsp; Burn marks on wood are generally caused by misaligned table saw blades or dull router bits.&nbsp; Spending some extra time tuning up your table saw and keeping your blades and bits sharp will go a long way in preventing those ugly burns.<br /><br />For more information on tuning up your table saw, see our video:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.woodworkersresource.com/video-blog/tlc-for-your-table-saw/">Tuning Up Your Table Saw</a><br /><br />Also, use a steady, consistent motion as you push the stock through the saw blade or router bit.&nbsp; Stopping or even slowing down for even a second will cause some woods like cherry and maple to burn. &nbsp;<br /><br />If you're still getting burn marks with sharp router bits, here's some tricks to try.&nbsp; If the profile you're cutting will permit it, sneak up on the final depth.&nbsp; For flutes, rabbets, or dadoes, cut about 3/4 of the final depth and then remove the remaining material with the final pass.&nbsp; When routing edge details, if possible, remove most of the material in one pass, move the fence back slightly, and then finish the cut. The less the bit has to work, the less likely it will be to leave burn marks. <br /><br />If you have a variable speed router in your router table, try slowing the speed down a little a see if it helps on a scrap piece. &nbsp;<br /><br />Another trick to try is to wet the material with a sponge before making the final pass in the scenario above.&nbsp; I haven't tried this method before, but I've read of others having success with it.<br /><br />I hope these suggestions help.&nbsp; If anyone has any other trick or tips about preventing burn marks on wood or suggestions on removing burn marks, leave them in the comments section below.<br /><br />Craig<br />]]>
      
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<entry>
   <title>Review of Cast Iron Router Table Top from Peachtree Woodworking</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.woodworkersresource.com/blog/review-of-cast-iron-router-table-top/" />
   <id>tag:www.woodworkersresource.com,2008:/blog//2.215</id>
   
   <published>2008-10-24T16:53:15Z</published>
   <updated>2008-11-04T22:30:53Z</updated>
   
   <summary><![CDATA[I love going to as many woodworking shows as I can throughout the year. You get to see the latest and greatest from the "big names" which is fun.&nbsp; But the booths I like the best are the small one...]]></summary>
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      <![CDATA[<p>I love going to as many woodworking shows as I can throughout the year.  You get to see the latest and greatest from the "big names" which is fun.&nbsp; But the booths I like the best are the small one product companies and the local retail stores.  </p>

<p>One such retail store that I can almost always count on having a booth at shows, in and around the southeast, is <a href="http://ptreeusa.com/">Peachtree Woodworking Supply</a>.</p>

<p>One of the things that I like best about Peachtree Woodworking, is that they carry all the tools and equipment that you would expect, but they carry many items that the "big guys" don't.</p>

<p>We recently did a video review of one of those products.  A solid cast iron router table top.</p>

<p>You can see the video review <a href="http://www.woodworkersresource.com/video-blog/cast-iron-router-table/">here</a>.</p>

<p>The video goes through my experience of installing the router table top as a side extension to my table saw.  The video covers most things, but there were a few things that I omitted to save time that I'd like to cover here.</p>

<p>First off, I want to briefly review the installation process, and my findings of the router table top.</p>

<p>Here is my review:  </p>

<p><strong><em>I have rated certain findings with a letter grade below, (A) - (F), with A being a superior rating and so forth.</em><br /></strong></p><p><br /><strong></strong> </p>

<p><b><u>Cast Iron Router Table Top from Peachtree Woodworking Supply:</u></b></p>

<p><b>Weight</b>:                           44 lbs.</p><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><img alt="lrg_cast_iron_250.jpg" src="http://www.woodworkersresource.com/blog/image/lrg_cast_iron_250.jpg" class="mt-image-right" style="margin: 0pt 0pt 20px 20px; float: right;" width="250" height="192" /></span>

<p><b>Manufactured</b>:            Taiwan</p>

<p><b>Fit and Finish</b>:                (A)   No visible defects, machining was good.</p>

<p><b>Flatness</b>:                        (A)   Table Top was dead flat using a straight edge that is <br />
                                               machined flat to within .003 over the entire length.   </p>

<p><b>Table Size</b>:                    1 1/2" x 15" x 27" </p>

<p><b>Insert</b>:                            Phenolic insert with two removable rings.</p>

<p><b>Router Plate Opening</b>:  9 1/4" x 11 3/4" or 9" x 12"</p>

<p><b>Miter Gauge Slot</b>:         3/8" x 3/4"</p>

<p><b>Installation</b>:                   (B+)  Everything went smoothly until it came time to install the <br />
                                      fence rails to the router table top.  The holes didn't line up for my 
                                      particular brand fence.  If a slot had been machined into the edge 
                                      of the top instead of just a hole, it could accommodate more fence 
                                      systems.  Not a big deal though, a new hole had to be drilled 
                                      into the edge of the top.  (Instructions did state that this could 
                                      happen).</p>

<p><b>Instruction Manual</b>:       (A)  Good instruction manual, very straight forward.</p>

<p><b>Dust Collection</b>:            (C)  Dust collection seems to be a bit of an after thought.  The 
                                            parts supplied work well at pulling dust away, but there 
                                            wasn't a clear way to attach
                                            it to the fence system.  Double sided turners tape is what I
                                            used although epoxy would probably hold it as well.</p>

<p><b>Aluminum Fence</b>:         (B)  The fence I used was 32" with a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 3 1/4" 
                                             mouth opening. I found that the 
                                             aluminum fence needed to be shimmed slightly to get it to 
                                             exactly 90 degrees.  The instructions do state that the 
                                             aluminum fence is made from a non-machined extrusion and
                                             shimming may be required to bring the fence square.  For the 
                                             price of the aluminum fence, I think this is acceptable (see
                                             price break down below).</p><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><img alt="deluxeRouterTableFence.jpg" src="http://www.woodworkersresource.com/blog/image/deluxeRouterTableFence.jpg" class="mt-image-right" style="margin: 0pt 0pt 20px 20px; float: right;" width="210" height="135" /></span><p><b>Uni-T Fence</b>:&nbsp; (A)&nbsp; There's a Mini T-Track mounted on the top (2 tracks) and front (1 track) of the
fence, which allows for the use of many add on items, such as:
featherboards,<br /> stop blocks and more. The UHMW insert fences are
replaceable, &amp; sacrificial, so you can make zero clearance cut outs
for any router bit.</p><p><br /></p><p>&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;</p><p><i><b>Should you use your table saw's fence for your router table?</b></i></p><p>At first glance, one of the big conveniences of putting your router table insert into your table saw's extension wing is that you can also use the same fence.&nbsp; Many folks do just that and make it work.&nbsp; But my vote is to use a separate fence for the router table.&nbsp; Here's why:</p><p>Making very small adjustments to a table saw fence is difficult, (the exception to this would be the Incra fence) and let's be honest, not usually needed.&nbsp; Adjustments of 1/32" doesn't&nbsp; make much difference when you're ripping a board.&nbsp; However, that same measurement can affect the look of a profile cut with a router bit. <br /></p><p>By using a dedicated fence for your router that is adjustable on both ends you can easily make adjustments of 1/32".&nbsp; Simply lock in one side of the fence and pivot the other end either in or out.&nbsp; Because the router bit is in the middle, but your adjustments are pivoting only on one end, very small adjustments can be made.</p><p>Whether you use an aftermarket fence system like the one above or build your own, you'll soon come to appreciate the advantages of a dedicated router table fence.</p><p>&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;<br /></p><p><i><b>Pricing</b></i></p><p>Cast Iron Router Table Top:&nbsp; $229.99<br /></p><p>Aluminum Fence:&nbsp; $29.99<br /></p><p>Uni-T Fence:&nbsp; $69.99<br /></p><p>Fence Dust Port:&nbsp; $3.99<br /></p><p><a href="http://ptreeusa.com/routertableFence.htm#3363">Cast Iron Router Table Top with Supreme Fence Package</a>:&nbsp; $339.99</p><p><br /></p><p><i><b>Overall Scores</b></i>:</p><p>Cast Iron Router Table Top: &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; (A)</p><p>Fence System: &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; (B)</p><p>Value:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; (B)</p><p>Overall:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; (B+)</p><p><br /></p><p>Having changed from a pressed steel extension wing on my contractor saw to this cast iron router table has made a big difference in the vibration level of my table saw.&nbsp; Plus I'm enjoying the added benefits of the router table being grouped together with my BIG THREE (table saw, jointer, planer).&nbsp; This is about as close to a European combo machine as you can get without forking out the big money!</p><br />You can find the cast iron router table and fence system, as well as many other unique woodworking items at <a href="http://ptreeusa.com/">Peachtree Woodworking Supply.</a>]]>
      

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