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September 09, 2008
Bookcases: How much time do you have?At the end of our four part series on construction methods for building bookcases I told you that I'd show you some of the other bookcases I've built and talk a little about the construction methods of each.
Instead of doing this in a video format, I decided to simply take pictures. Below you'll find a number of pictures with discussion about how each was built. I also have pictures of the bookcases I did in the videos installed so you can see the finished product.
We love books as you can probably tell from the pictures below. Finding a place to store all our books has sometimes been a challenge (yes, even for a woodworker)!
The problem we usually ran into was the fact that I didn't want to build something if it wasn't something "up to my standards" What I mean by that is I didn't want to make something that when looked at by friends or family, the first thought would be, "Wow, I expected to see something more impressive". Can you relate?
But, to be honest, I just had to get over it and build some bookcases that looked nice, but weren't all that time consuming so that my wife wouldn't kill me.
So, in the pictures below you'll see examples of bookcases that can be built in a long weekend, all the way up to a bookcase that took me two weeks to build. (Which is when, by the way, the idea finally got through to me that every piece I build doesn't have to be heirloom quality).
If bookcases are on your list of projects to build, hopefully this article will help you decide how much time (and money) you want to spend making them.
As always, if you have any questions or comments, simply leave them at the bottom of this page.
Craig
Here's about as simple and basic as you get for a bookcase. These two bookcases are in our school room/playroom where my wife homeschools our three kids. The bookcases are made from plywood with a face frame made from poplar. The back is 1/4" birch ply that I left unpainted because I liked the look (okay, I got tired of painting, but I do like the look). There was no moulding used because these bookcases were made for one purpose: Getting books and toys off the floor! I had no illusions of these bookcases being passed down to my children and their children. It took a weekend to complete these two bookcases, including painting. This bookcase is used in our youngest son's room and is pretty basic in construction as well. The biggest difference is that moulding was used to dress it up and the piece was stained instead of painted. It's made from white pine (the sides made from two 12" wide boards) with the exception of 1/4" plywood. I used a gel stain (which I love using on pine to prevent "blotching") to give the piece a uniform color. This is important when you're mixing wood. I also like to use gel stain to "antique" a piece by leaving a little in the crevices where dirt and grime would naturally build up. ![]() Here's a shot of the moulding that I used on the pine bookcase. Notice anything unusual about it? This is a trick I learned from Philip Lowe. This moulding is made up of two separate pieces of the same profile. Notice that the top profile is simply flipped upside down from the bottom piece. The bottom piece is applied to the carcass with the same profile routed onto the edges of the top, only flipped upside down. It gives a very nice built-up profile that's easy to do. The base moulding is made from pine with a simple round over. Very basic, but adds a lot, when you compare it to our first bookcase. This bookcase took about four evenings to complete, with another couple of days for the finish. My wife is not happy over the closeup of our dust. ![]() Here's one of two bookcases that I built for my wife for her sewing room. She is as passionate about heirloom sewing (not dusting) as I am about woodworking (I had to put my foot down when she wanted to make drapes for my shop). These bookcases are very similar to the bookcases built in our videos. I want to point out two differences: The material used and the different moulding used. I tried something new with these bookcases. See, I have a confession to make: I hate to paint! There, I've said it. So, in designing these bookcases I thought I'd try using melamine for the sides, top and bottom so I wouldn't have to paint them. Wrong! Because the face frame and back had to be painted, the colors didn't match. So I ended up painting the whole thing anyway! I was not a happy camper. ![]() Here's a close up of the crown molding used on these bookcases. The crown actually sits on a piece of poplar with an ogee profile routed on the edge. This gives a wider looking crown with added depth and shadow lines. These bookcases took about a week, working during the evenings with the weekend spent painting. Well, here they are. The bookcases built during our video series, completed and installed. These bookcases weren't meant to look "built-in" because I didn't want to use the same molding that was used in the room. Also, we want to be able to take them with us if we ever decide to move. A desk was added between the two bookcases by installing cleats to the sides of the bookcases and to the wall (which my daughter still needs to paint. Remember, I don't paint unless forced.
This is the crown moulding that was used in our bookcase video series. . You can compare this moulding profile to the one above. There isn't much difference in how these two pieces of crown are used, but they offer a distinctively different look. A profile was routed on the top piece here, just as in our previous example, to add width and depth to the final look.
![]() Here's the bookcase that made me realize that I don't have to build a masterpiece every time I make a piece of furniture. I enjoyed building this piece, but realized that I didn't have two weeks to build all the rest of the bookcases we needed. This bookcase is made from African Mahogany, a wood that is similar to Honduras Mahogany. The difference I found in working with the African version was that it was lighter in weight, and much more susceptible to splitting. Other than that, it has the advantage of being more readily available and less expensive. The sides are made from one board each. The top is attached to the sides with sliding dovetails. ![]() This was my first attempt at making ogee bracket feet. Surprisingly, they weren't complicated to make, but was by far the most time consuming part of the bookcase. The back "feet" are dovetailed together for added strength. ![]() The moulding "technique" used on the mahogany bookcase is the same as with the pine bookcase above. The profile is the same for both pieces, only flipped around. The bottom piece of moulding is applied to the carcass, with the edges of the top piece routed on the front and sides. The finish used was a coat of linseed oil followed by multiple (thin) coats of orange shellac applied by french polishing. Well, that's a few of the bookcases I've built over the years. Hopefully this article will help you decide what style bookcase you would like to build for your own home by first figuring out, "How Much Time Do You Have", to put into one. If you have any different designs you'd like to share with us, send them to me at: contactus@woodworkersresource.com. I'll add them to this article as they come in. And as always, if you have any questions or comments, please leave them below.
Craig P.S. Here are some more pictures of bookcase designs sent in by viewers of our website. A big thank you to all those who took the time to share their bookcase designs with us! (click on the "view picture" buttons below to see pictures, doing this will help the page load faster). Our first bookcase design comes from Kent: Hi Craig, View image View image View image View image View image Next, here are several bookcase designs by Cliff: Craig...here's a few....I kind of think of these as "a father's portfolio"....with three married daughters and an ongoing remodel (10 year project) the work never seems to stop. Thanks, Cliff View image View image View image View image View image View image View image View image View image View image View image View image View image View image Here's a beautiful pine built-in bookcase that Peter built for a client: Craig, You asked for other bookcase designs. This is a picture of a bookcase I built for a client. He bought a house from 1900 and brought it back to its original state. It had nice mouldings on the ceiling, and wide pine floorboards. And an ugly chipboard bookcase. He wanted me to build a bookcase in the same style as the house. And it had to be pine. So I took a good look at the moulding from the ceiling, and this was the bookcase I came up with. The bottom unit with the doors is separate from the top unit, but the wide bottom shelf is connected to the upper unit. Everything is made of solid pine, and all the shelves can be hung on different heights and are supported by crosspieces , which hang in standing pieces with a kind of saw tooth in them. There is a scribed plinth on the front of the legs, because the floor changed more than an inch in height over the length of the bookcase. That's why it has separate legs: so the height of the legs can be tailor made to the floor. Hope you like this design, Peter The Netherlands View image |















Comments (2)
Thank you for sending pics of something I can and would make. (I never did get along with "Queen Anne" anyway.) LOL
Send a picture and they will build it.
Once again, Thanks
Vince
Posted by Vince Faulkner | September 11, 2008 7:06 PM
Posted on September 11, 2008 19:06
Yes it does eventually dawn on you that everything you build doesn't need to be "Heirloom" quality.
I had my woodworking "library" in the basement on some claptrap temp shelves. My wife wanted to go buy some knockdown flatpack bookshelves. I said I could knock something out that day (it was a Saturday morning). I grabbed a couple of sheets of 1/2" paint grade birch plywood and 1/4" birch at my local lumber suplier. I had some dimensional birch from a previous project for face frames and cleats.
I ripped the 1/2" plywood into 11 3/4 inch strips and made 6 six foot sides. I used the offcuts at about 24" to make the top and bottom shelf of the three units. I used cleats at the corners for speed of assembly, these were going in the basement after all and the face frames would hide them anyway. Before assembly I had routed a strong 1/4 x 1/4 groove in the carcass pieces to allow for the plywood back to be let in.
With a plywood toe kick installed I ripped shelves a quarter inch narrower than the carcass and installed them on cleats as well. Cut and fit the backs nailing them in.
I ripped dimensional birch down to 1 1/2 inches and installed it in strips right onto the carcass instead of making the frame and installing it assembled. Just cut glue nail! I knew these would be set up as a single unit in the basement so I made the face frame pieces on what would be adjoining sides out of 3/4 inch dimensional birch. I actually ripped them out of a board in consecutive order and installed them so that when set next to each other and screwed together it would be 1 1/2 wide with matching grain giving the appearance that it is one big shelving unit.
I filled the nail holes, sanded and shot it with 2 coats of lacquer on Sunday. The finished units look like one unit, are relatively light weight, were quick to build and most importantly impressed the wife! A very successfull project!
David McDonnel
Indianapolis, IN
Posted by David McDonnel | September 12, 2008 9:20 AM
Posted on September 12, 2008 09:20