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March 19, 2008
Contractor Saws vs. Cabinet SawsCabinet Saws vs. Contractor Saws: Which one should you buy? This is almost like messing with Social Security, or talking about war in southeast Asia. You just can't win this battle. Woodworkers have strong opinions when it comes to which type of table saw you need in your shop. Well, it all comes down to making an informed decision. Armed with the right information you'll be able to make the call as to which type of table saw is best for your type of woodworking. No one saw works for every woodworker. But, each saw has its clear advantages and disadvantages. This article will shed light on these points and help you make an informed decision. Contractor Saws Advantages of a Contractor Saw: Contractor Saws are a big improvement over bench top style table saws. Contractor saws are belt driven as opposed to their direct drive cousins. The induction motor on a contractor saw is suspended at the rear of the machine with the weight of the motor providing the tension for the belt. Other advantages of induction motors over universal motors are the induction motor is built to run for longer periods of time and run more quietly than universal motors. Staying on the topic of vibration, cabinet saws have much more mass than do bench top table saws. Vibration is caused by many factors with a table saw, some of which can be lessened dramatically by properly tuning up your saw. However, when you have moving parts, like on a table saw, you're going to have vibration. And the best way to dampen that vibration is with the weight of the saw itself. Most contractor saws weight in at between 200 - 325 lbs. Cost: The cost of a contractor saw will set you back between $500 - $1000, (see comparison chart below). Many things add to the cost of a good contractor saw. Cast iron wings, beefier trunnions, overall weight of the saw, etc. For a good quality contractor saw look to pay around $800. Motor: Most contractor saws come with a 1 1/2 hp motor. This is enough power for most tasks that a hobbyist will need. If you, on a regular bases, cut pieces of hard maple, oak, exotics, etc., that are 2" or thicker, you may start dreaming of a cabinet saw! Electrical: All contractors saws (that I know of) are wired for 120 volts, which can plug into any 15 amp outlet in your shop. Some contractor saws can also be wired for 220 volts. If you have 220 in your shop I'd suggest you run your saw on 220 if for no other reason than cutting your amps in half. By doing this you're less likely to trip a circuit. Fences: After-market fences are a big improvement to the standard fence that come on some saws. However, most contractor saw manufacturers offer an upgraded fence (usually a Biesemeyer type fence). Get it, you won't regret it. Maintenance: Contractor saws are fairly easy to maintain. The one exception being degreasing and lubricating. This operation can be done with a spray can using extension tubes to get to hard to reach places, but to do a thorough job, the saw needs to be flipped upside down. (At least you can do this with a contractor saw!) For more information on how to setup, clean, and maintain a table saw, see our video that shows you how. Disadvantages of Contractor Saws Weight: More vibration due to less overall mass than a cabinet saw (see weight of cabinet saw below). This can produce rougher cuts than cabinet saws. Although, if both saws are properly aligned, you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference in either cut. Exposed Belts: Exposed belts can be a safety concern. No one should ever be at the back of the saw when it's in use, however, anytime you have exposed moving parts, there is a need for concern of cutoffs falling into the spinning belt and jamming. Exposed Motor: Most contractor saws use a motor that isn't sealed, meaning dust and other things can get inside the motor housing. At best, this requires regular maintenance of blowing out the the dust with compressed air. At worst, fires have been reported due to wood dust collecting inside the motor. Lack of Power For Full Cutting Depth: At 1- 1 1/2 horsepower, a contractor saw will bog down in cutting to the full depth of cut of the blade (typically 3 1/8") in hard woods such as maple. This type of cut isn't common so think about how you're going to be using your saw first before this becomes a deal breaker. Also, a thin kerf blade will help your saw not have to work as hard to cut through thick hard woods. Alignment of saw can be more difficult: Getting your contractor saw adjusted can be trickier than with a cabinet saw. Aligning the blade to the miter slot is harder on a contractor saw because the table top can't be moved to make this adjustment, the trunnion assembly must be loosened and moved and then tightened back without moving anything. This is trial and error with contractor saws. However, with an after-market product this process can be made simple (see our Table Saw Tune-Up Video from more information). Out-feed Tables Can Get In The Way: With the motor hung off the back of the saw, attaching out-feed tables can be a challenge. Poorly Designed For Dust Collection: One of the major disadvantages, in my opinion, of contractor saws is the fact that they do a poor job in dust collection. Some of the newer models have made improvements, but there's only so much that can be done. With the open design of contractor saws, there's just not a good way to pull the sawdust away. There are just too many "holes" to plug to get enough air volume moving. An after-market overhead blade guard and dust collection system can help with this problem. Longevity: Contractor saws are not designed to be used 8 hours a day, 6 days a week. If you plan on using your saw like this, suck it up and get a cabinet saw, it'll save you money in the long run. Cabinet Saws This is a saw that Tim Allen from Tool Time would be proud to call his own. This saw is more powerful, beefier, and just works smoother than their smaller cousins. If money isn't a concern (and if it's not, can we talk?) then this type table saw should be in your shop. That's not to say that you'd be throwing money away on a cabinet saw. Cabinet saws have some distinct advantages over contractor saws. Advantages of Cabinet Saws: Power: Motors on cabinet saws are generally rated at 3 - 5 horsepower. This is enough to cut through anything that you could throw at it. Less Likely to Burn Cuts: Taking any alignment issues off the table, the main reason for burned cuts is slow feed rates. With the extra power of the cabinet saws, you won't have to slow down your feed rates just to get through the cut, there by, causing fewer burn marks. More Mass: This is important. Cabinet saws simply have more weight due to their bulkier frames. This is an advantage for several reasons. Average weight of a cabinet saw is around 500 lbs. Less Vibration: The extra mass may produce smoother cuts. Beefier Trunnions: This is one of the most important parts of the table saw. The trunnion assembly is what allows you to tilt the saw blade and what holds the saw blade at 90 degrees to the table, cut after cut, after cut. The beefier trunnions and how they connect to the saw are one of the reasons a cabinet saw should be the last saw you ever have to buy. Beefier Controls: The raising of the blade and the tilting mechanism are generally much easier and smoother to operate on a cabinet saw than a contractor saw. This may not sound like much, but if you're at your saw all day making different cuts that require you to make these type adjustments, you'll appreciate it. Easier to Align: The trunnion assembly and table top are connected separately to the frame. This allows for fine adjustments to be made easier in aligning the blade to the miter slot vs. a contractor saw. As a side note, I've also seen contractor saws thrown out of alignment by simply changing the angle of the blade. With the size and design of a cabinet saw this shouldn't be an issue. Concealed Motor and Belts: Unlike a contractor saw, the motor and belts are all housed in a "cabinet". This allows the cabinet saw to have a somewhat smaller foot print. This design also alleviates the concern that cutoffs could fall into the the spinning belts. Another advantage to this design is that they run quieter because the motor is inside the cabinet dampening the sound. Sealed Motor: Because the motor of a cabinet saw is housed inside the cabinet it can be subjected to more wood dust than even contractor saw motors that hang off the back. Because of this, cabinet saw motors are sealed so no outside dust can get into the motor. This helps the motor to last long and alleviates the chance of a fire starting inside the motor due to wood dust. Better Dust Collection: Here's where the cabinet saw design really shines against contractor saws. The cabinet keeps most of the wood dust inside and allows a dust collecting system to suck most of the wood dust away. You'll even notice less saw dust coming off the blade as compared to a contractor saw. Magnetic Switch: Most cabinet saws (but not all) cabinet saws come with a magnetic safety switch. These switches prevent the saw from coming back on after a power interruption. This is a safety feature that you should invest in no matter if you have a contractor saw or a cabinet saw that didn't come with one. Cost is around $150. Disadvantages of a Cabinet Saw: This is a tough call. To not make this article any longer, I've narrowed the disadvantages of a cabinet saw to just three. Ready... Price Price Price OK, there is one other serious draw back to a cabinet type table saw besides price. 220 Volt Wiring: You must have 220 service to your shop in order to run the larger size motors that come with cabinet saws. This shouldn't be a deal breaker for most. It isn't that difficult to run 220 into your shop. If you have a sub-panel in your shop already, then it's really straight forward. If you don't have a sub-panel in your shop, you probably should, but that's another article for another time. Hybrid Saws Hybrid table saws are just that, a hybrid between a cabinet saw and a contractor saw. They have characteristics of each and their price ranges in between as well. Advantages of Hybrid Saws: Enclosed Base: Hybrid saws have a cabinet type base that resembles a cabinet saw or have legs like a contractor saw. In either case, the "base" is fully enclosed, with the motor mounted inside, like a cabinet saw. Beefier Trunnions: Hybrid saws have more substantial trunnions and arbor bearings, and usually a better drive belt system than contractor saws. Easier Alignment: Many hybrid saws have their trunnions mounted to the base of the saw, making precision alignment of the blade to the miter slot easier. Horse Power: Hybrid Saws have motors between 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 HP. Standard 110 Volt Wiring: You don't have to worry about wiring your shop for 220 if it's not already. Price: Hybrid saws are less expensive than cabinet saws, but not by much (see below for a break down of price). Dust Collection: Better design than contractor saws, due to the enclosed base. Fence System: Most hybrid saws come with a better "standard" fence system than contractor saws do. Disadvantages of Hybrid Saws: Motor: Still under-sized for the really thick stuff. Cost: Not much difference in price between hybrids and lower cost cabinet saws. (See cost break down below). Weight: Still not as beefy as a cabinet saw. Weight on average of a hybrid saw is 300 lbs. Cost Of Typical Table Saws In Each Category*
(* Prices vary, sometime dramatically, depending on extras. Examples would be cast iron extension wing, 50" fence, mobile base, etc.) The above information is based on the facts on each table saw type. It is by no means is complete, I'm sure I left off some things, but it should help you make an informed decision based on your needs. Now, for some biased opinions, based on my own experiences, and experiences of woodworkers I've talked to. Here it goes... The number one reason to pick a contractor saw over a cabinet saw is going to be price. But this advantage is a BIG ONE! Cabinet saws can cost twice as much as contractor saws. The price of a middle of the road cabinet saw is around $1800. This is the reason I choose a contractor saw years ago over a cabinet saw. Also, I was just getting into woodworking and didn't want to shell out the big money right up front to realize that this wasn't something for me. If hind sight were 20/20, I might have gone on and bought a cabinet saw... and I probably wouldn't have bought that mutual fund either, but I digress. The question becomes one of need and economics. Need is such a nasty word when it come to woodworking. I'm sure you're like me. You NEED all the biggest and brightest new tools that come on the market. So, let me re-phrase that first sentence. The question is how much does your pocket book need a cabinet saw? This is my opinion (again, it's worth what you're paying for it). If a contractor saw will do 90% of all the cuts you will likely need it to make and you can't afford a cabinet saw, don't go into debt to buy one. Especially if you're just tooling up. Save the money and invest it into a jointer and planer. This is what the majority of woodworkers do, including myself. If there's one thing I've learned in working wood over the past decade, it's this: The tools aren't what make a woodworker good. It's the skill, passion, and dedication of the woodworker to learn the craft that sets a great woodworker apart from an ordinary one. I've owned the same contractor saw for over 11 years and it still works just fine. Do I want a cabinet saw? You're dang straight I do! Why? Because of all the reasons listed in the advantages section above. Can I get by with the saw I have now, probably so, and for several more years. But, when I do end up getting a new saw, It'll be a cabinet saw. And when I do, it'll be the last table saw I'll ever need. Did I say need? What I meant to say was unless a really cool one comes on the market that I can plug my iPod into and can lift a piece of plywood off the ground and gently place in on the table top, and ... Let me know what you think. Post a comment below and let me know if you think I'm off base or if you have anything you'd like me to add to this article. Craig Stevens WoodworkersResource.com (c) 2008 |
Comments (29)
Very Very good article, I think it really cuts away (no pun intended) the useless company hypes, and details the true plus and minus points. IMHO -for most workworkers- I think a hybrid saw provides a nice compromise without giving up quality.
Posted by Bill | March 20, 2008 5:47 PM
Posted on March 20, 2008 17:47
The table saw is the best way to go if you are a serious woodworker. Powermatic is my pick, 5 h.p.
Posted by Doug Chachere | March 20, 2008 5:56 PM
Posted on March 20, 2008 17:56
Really well written, informative article. Was not a "sales pitch"for any kind of saw. Thank you for that. I wonder though if you should have mentioned availability of used equipment. Maybe at least in passing, but saved the "how to" information for another article.
Posted by Dave Ray | March 20, 2008 6:04 PM
Posted on March 20, 2008 18:04
This is excellent and timely as I'm trying to make this very decision now. Thanks.
Posted by Michael Cartwright | March 20, 2008 6:13 PM
Posted on March 20, 2008 18:13
Craig, great article! I believe that you 'hit the nail right on the head'. Your pros and cons are dead on.
I have a great contractors saw with an after market fence. I love it! It works great. However, like you, I sure eye those cabinet saws, and when the time comes, which I don't think will be soon, I'll likely upgrade to a cabinet saw. Thanks for a great reference article, keep 'em comin'!
Hey, give me a heads up when the one with the iPod jack is available... that's a deal breaker! :)
Posted by Woodworker's Guide | March 20, 2008 6:31 PM
Posted on March 20, 2008 18:31
I have had contractor saws in the past. I now have two cabinet model Unisaws. One has a 3Hp (220v-30 amp) motor the other has a 5Hp (220v-40 amp) motor. My shop is upstairs above my garage. No elevator. I have fork lift access. No fork lift. I'm no longer a young bull. The only way to get them up stairs is to disassemble them and haul them up the stairs. Breaking down the assembly to items which weigh less than 50 lb is not easy. Tables, motors, trunions, etc weigh more. Some parts are dificult to disassemble with out special tools. Some are difficult to realign without special tools. Not all tools new to the shop are "new". Many are second hand/used. An assembled cabinet saw may easisly weigh 450lb. Making a saw easier to dissassemble/reassemble would be better than making it lighter. Motors with a soft start make much less noise throughout the house than the normal harder start motors.
A basement workshop may present many of the same problems.
Posted by Ed Straub | March 20, 2008 7:00 PM
Posted on March 20, 2008 19:00
I only object to the reference to war in Southeast Asia, I think you should use a different comparison like dealing with the in-laws.
I retired 5 years ago and sold my contractor saw and got a Delta cabinet saw, wide table, movable base and a couple of freebies that they were throwing in at the time. I am just an ameature but I would highly recommend.
Take care.
Posted by Ron Green | March 20, 2008 7:02 PM
Posted on March 20, 2008 19:02
Your write-up is a nice, concise summary of the differences and advantages. Good Job!!
Some 65 years ago I got started with a tabletop saw, and quickly found that it was really only good enough (the models then) for rough carpentry work, but my Dad and I managed to add two rooms in the attic of our house and do the trim-work and built-ins too.
It was twenty-some years later before I got settled in my own house and bought a Rockwell/Delta saw that looked like a cabinet saw, but would probably be classified as a hybrid saw today. I used that saw for 30 years, all the time fussing with the alignment--it was impossible--the motor/sawblade combination (trunnion?) always moved out of position when I tightened the bolts! It was not one of Delta's 'better ideas'! It built a lot of sheds and remodeling projects aroound the house, but I cursed that machine every time I used it.
Finally, after the kids were all grown and out on their own, and I was retired for a few years, I got enough courage to spend the money on a "true" cabinet saw--a Jet Exacta.
I have been in heaven ever since, and wished I had had the guts to spend the necessary money years ago! Unfortunately, it comes at a time in my life (I'm going on 79) where the body is no longer as "willing" as it was a few years back, but I have no regrets for buying the saw, and expect to use it for some years yet.
Maybe this short history of my experiences will make others try to bite the bullet and get the best as soon as they can! (PS: I realize that today all saws are better in each category than what I experienced over the years, but I still think the cabinet saw is the preferable one to get.)
Posted by John Shurtleff | March 20, 2008 7:41 PM
Posted on March 20, 2008 19:41
Good article. I went through all these same steps in deciding which saw to buy for myself. I bought a cabinet saw because I have bad eyesight and needed something that made setup easier. Ease of setup was the big decider for me. Once a cabinet saw is setup it stays put. You might want to include that in any rewrite. it's actually for a new or beginner woodworker.
Posted by George | March 20, 2008 7:57 PM
Posted on March 20, 2008 19:57
I'm sure many hobbiest have gotten a great deal of use and enjoyment out of contractor style table saws. I purchased such a saw for my son, who builds electric guitars and electric basses. He has gotten good used out of the saw. He could not afford to buy a saw and my wife and I could not afford a more expensive saw for him at that time.
However, if one is planning to make serious furniture or projects of this type, my recommendation would be to purchase a quality cabinet saw. With careful shopping, quality does NOT have to be synonymous with higher price. I purchased a quality but lower price saw in 1995, w/Biesmeyer style fence (a quality copy), cast iron wings, extended fence rail, etc. I have run many hundreds of board feet of hardwoods - mahogony to oak to exotics - through this saw. It has maintained accuracy throughout.
Finally two weeks ago I decided to replace the arbor bearings and belts. I used the "Super Tune Your Tablesaw" article from American Woodworker, February 1995 to make all adjustment on reassembly. Once AGAIN, with my top quality carbide 40tooth blade, I'm running cherry, maple & oak through the saw with a nickle standing on edge on the table top. This type of performance leads to accuracy and greater confidence in the outcome of your projects.
If you are going to do woodworking, skip the lower quality style saws and get a machine you will never regret having purchased.
Posted by John R | March 20, 2008 8:54 PM
Posted on March 20, 2008 20:54
I have to say, my experience and opinions are very similar to yours. If I had it to do over I would have bought a cabinet saw. I would say my woodworking hobby has moved quickly to the next level. Not to the extent of starting my own business, but I'm getting serious about my woodworking. The projects I'm working on and plan to do, would be made easier with a cabinet saw. I'm not saying I can't do the projects with my contractor saw, that would be a silly statement. There was a lot of woodworking done before there ever were table saws or any power tools. For me it's about horsepower. My contractor saw got quite a workout while building my latest workbench. A bigger motor would have handled all that ripping a lot better. I also find the motor that hangs off the back of a contractor saw, to be annoying. It does get in the way of an outfeed table and the "exposed" belt can be a hazard. If I didn't have the money for a cabinet saw I would buy a hybrid saw just for that reason.
Overall a very good article, with lots of good information.
Posted by Mike Lingenfelter | March 20, 2008 10:09 PM
Posted on March 20, 2008 22:09
Nice article. A feature that might have been added would be the safety aspects of the different types. I have a Jet 10" cabinet saw that I've had for over thirty years and with a 3 HP motor and a good sharp blade it takes care of nearly anything that I want to cut. I have added a good aftermarket rip fence (Vega), a sliding table (Delta), a good miter gauge, a mobility kit, and some decent throat plates.
It's shortcomings are
1. Fit and finish; this saw was made and imported in Jet's early days when things were rather crude compared to the Jets of today.
2 Lack of a riving knife; more and more manufacturers are offering this item that has been on European models for years.
3. Because this is an early Jet model, a lot of the aftermarket items and jigs just don't fit.
4. A decent blade guard; after fiddlling with the included factory guard for many years, I just gave up and put it on the shelf where it still resides, not a good idea, but I just haven't found an aftermarket guard that I like.
5. Lack of the safety feature that stops the blade instantly ala Saw Stop!
Prior to this Jet cabinet saw, I had a Sears contractor-type saw and no matter how much I modified and improved it, it was still very limited in its capability. The Jet has been a good buy, but I lust heartily after the Saw Stop with all its features and if I have to move again, I will get the Saw Stop instead of moving the Jet again.
Posted by Wayne S. | March 20, 2008 10:24 PM
Posted on March 20, 2008 22:24
Good article, what I could read..........
It does not display properly in the newest version of Opera. your article goes beyond and through the black border of your table. Parts are unreadable.
PS
I feel that you do dablers like myself a disservice when you totally ignore the lower priced, yet servicable, saws of say, Sears, and their like. Used equipment is also a viable approach for a limited budget.
Posted by Peter Chast | March 20, 2008 11:13 PM
Posted on March 20, 2008 23:13
Being a one day a week woodworker, i've had a Delta contractor saw for the past 7 or 8 yrs. By upgrading the belt and using Forest & Freud blades I;ve hade very little complaint. Vibration is almost nil. Fence could be better. Wish someone would come up with a better way to enclose the back by the motor. I've run 2 inch maple with no burning. Just slow down the feed. My work bench runs behind the motor, so i have ample outfeed support. If doing this over I would get a cabinet saw.
Posted by Harvey Schrage | March 21, 2008 8:37 AM
Posted on March 21, 2008 08:37
Bill,
Thanks for your comment and for your kind words about the article. I really appreciate it.
Before I did the research for this article, I really thought that there wasn't much need to buy a hybrid saw. I thought the price was really closer to that of a cabinet saw. But, after seeing the prices of some hybrids, I too think they offer a lot for the money.
Take care,
Craig Stevens
Posted by (WR) Craig | March 21, 2008 8:47 AM
Posted on March 21, 2008 08:47
Dave and Ed,
Thanks guys for reminding me of the importance of including "used" machines as another option.
I actually thought of this as I was thinking about the article, but things have a way of not sticking in my head if I don't write it down immediately, (I chalk that up to turning 40 this year!)
I think a great option for many would be to find that contractor saw used where a woodworker is "upgrading" to a cabinet saw. That way you're not out as much money. Of course you could always make the jump straight to a cabinet saw if the pocket book allows.
Thanks for the comments!
Craig
Posted by (WR) Craig | March 21, 2008 8:58 AM
Posted on March 21, 2008 08:58
Ed,
Thanks for the comment. And thanks for bringing to my attention weight being a disadvantage in some circumstances, especially for those that have a basement shop and have to carry their tools down steps.
I've read that the reason that contractor saws were originally designed with the motor hanging off the back was so that it could make them easily removable. This was to make the saw portable for use on jobsites. Of course, this was when the saws were much lighter!
Take care,
Craig
Posted by (WR) Craig | March 21, 2008 9:05 AM
Posted on March 21, 2008 09:05
Ron,
Thank you for your comment. I appreciate you taking the time to write.
I wanted to let you know that I meant no disrespect by my reference to the war in Southeast Asia. I only used it as an example of those things that are touchy subjects to address in conversation. If I offended you, I apologize.
I have the upmost respect for all veterans and military personnel presently serving, so we can all have the freedom to pursue what God put us on this earth to do.
Sincerely,
Craig
Posted by (WR) Craig | March 21, 2008 9:20 AM
Posted on March 21, 2008 09:20
John S,
Wow, I hope the Lord blesses me with good health to work wood when I'm 79!
I agree with you about not waiting too long before you make the leap to a better saw if the one you're using causes more problems than it's worth.
I don't advocate anyone going into debt to buy anything (unless it's a house) especially in these economic times. But this is how I justify many of the woodworking purchases I've made over the years.
I'm walking through the door of my shop to work wood, relax, and put the worries of the day behind me. I enjoy the solitude, and the re-charging of my batteries that woodworking gives to me. I don't enter my shop to constantly have to set up tools every time I make a cut. Shop time is precious to me, so when I'm in there, I want to build, not mess with trying to get my tools to work properly.
Here's to many more years in the shop!
Craig Stevens
Posted by (WR) Craig | March 21, 2008 9:44 AM
Posted on March 21, 2008 09:44
Bill,
Nice review. We are all bombarded with new innovations for table saws especially cabinet. I think that you should do a follow up article discussing the upgrades available for table saws including sophisacated fences, easily removable splitters and guards, including those with built in dust collection. Integral sliding table upgrades (Jessem), or sliders that fit into miter slots. Miter gauge upgrades. Also modifying cabinet saws for better dust collection - I saw an interesting tip in a mag that talked about using magnetic sign material (the thin type that you can print on) to plug the obvious leak caused by the cabinet adjustment tracts for saw angle, which greatly improves throat plate suction.
As always thank you for taking the time to impart you woodworking acumen.
Posted by John | March 21, 2008 10:49 AM
Posted on March 21, 2008 10:49
Nice article and I enjoyed reading it. I intend to replace my current Delta direct drive table saw and your article describes some features to keep in mind. I will probably wait a while to see if more manufactures make a riving knife a standard safety feature at an affordable price. The table saw is perhaps the most important power tool for my wood working, but there is no question that it is the most dangerous. I agree that a good fence is important and I want a much better one than the one on my saw.
Your article is appreciated along with the comments of those responding.
Carl Parker
Posted by Carl Parker | March 21, 2008 12:59 PM
Posted on March 21, 2008 12:59
Great article. While I currently have a cabinet saw, just purchased a 5hp Powermatic just last summer, used a contractor saw for the last 20 years. As a matter of fact we kept the contractor saw and just leave the dado head in, got tired of changing back and forth between cuts. With a sharp blade in the contractor saw, it improved its cutting ability tremedously. While it would not cut 2 in maple or oak (mainly burned thru), the 5 hp doesn't even slow down. So we always used the band saw to cut the thick stuff before now.
What is bad now is we (my brother and I) have nothing to drool over now when we go to the tool shows, we have the saw we always wanted. Only recommedation that I have for my fellow woodworkers, buy as much motor as you can afford. We have too many 3hp equipment that does an adequate job, but 5hp would do the job great. So our 3 hp planer, sander and shaper will be upgraded to 5 when we can.
Posted by Stewart Myers | March 21, 2008 1:19 PM
Posted on March 21, 2008 13:19
Peter,
Thanks for your comment.
I wanted to answer your question about not mentioning lower price machines like Sears brand.
The article was not written to endorse any particular brand of saw. I only included price ranges to give folks an idea of the cost of each type saw.
The lowest price contractor saw that I was able to find that Sears sells was $729. With their top end model cabinet saw costing $1600.
Other manufactures have even less expensive models that are at least as well made, if not better (Grizzly being one that comes to mind). I'm not putting Sears down at all, but I think that sometimes they are thought of as being "inexpensive" in comparison to other manufactures, when in reality, it's not always so.
Craig
Posted by (WR) Craig | March 21, 2008 2:01 PM
Posted on March 21, 2008 14:01
Good article...clear, concise, informative. Could have discussed "future needs" more, as this is my problem now.
I purchased a Contractor's Saw a number of years ago and now find I have more space, greater ability, and a keener interest in woodworking. The saw I paid $1000.00 for back then (7 years ago)is still in perfect condition but is now only worth about $200.00. I'd like to upgrade to a cabinet saw but feel I would be giving this current saw away.
Think about your future needs when purchasing woodworking equipment and "buy big", you won't regret it. I don't know of one woodworker who started as a hobbyist and later quit. The tendency in woodworking, is to do more, buy more, learn more and ENJOY woodworking more.
Posted by Rock Cundari | March 23, 2008 6:19 PM
Posted on March 23, 2008 18:19
Rock,
Personally, I couldn't agree with you more. I sure wish I had known what I know now when I first started out. I would have definitely saved a little longer and bought a cabinet saw.
But, for some, woodworking never makes it past the occasional weekend project (I don't understand you people!) For those, a cabinet saw would be over kill.
With that said, I'm still with you Rock. Most woodworkers will be itching to up-grade to a cabinet saw in a few short years if they start out with a contractor saw. This "itch" may come more from "want" rather than "need" though.
Craig
Posted by (WR) Craig Stevens | March 24, 2008 9:01 AM
Posted on March 24, 2008 09:01
Your article was very well written and informative. I use a bench type saw that I purchased about 25 years ago. Price and confined shop space dictated this type of saw. I am still getting good results with it. I do drool over contractor saws at the home centers and cabinet saws in the magazine ads. My hope is to get a large enough shop that some day I can move up to a better saw. Your words have given me somethings to think about. (Hybred saws) Keep up the good work with your website.
Rihard Morris
Posted by Richard Morris | March 25, 2008 8:23 AM
Posted on March 25, 2008 08:23
I would also put in my two bits worth (can't get anything for two cents anymore) for looking at used cabinet saws. I lucked out a few yrs. back and found an old Enlon (predecessor to Griz's current 10" lineup) with recently rewound motor for $300. After using an 8" Craftsman for 35 yrs followed by a 10" Craftsman for 10 yrs., I'm in heaven. Solid, passes the nickel on edge test, Bies fence, 39" rip capacity. Splitter long since gone, but I use the "yellow wheels". Such a find may be rare but worth looking for. Difference between cabinet and contractor saws is like night and day. Enjoyed your writeup. Informative and unbiased.
Posted by Hal Smith | March 28, 2008 12:56 PM
Posted on March 28, 2008 12:56
Hi,
I liked the article, it was very informative,
however,I own a Festool plunge saw and table. I'm new to woodworking and have a very limited space in which to work. A table saw, contractors, or cabinet were just tooooo big for my workshop.
So far, I haven't come across any problems that the Festool can't handle. Like I said, I'm a newbe so nothing huge is going on yet. I'll keep you informed.
Posted by Lynn | March 30, 2008 3:45 AM
Posted on March 30, 2008 03:45
You mentioned a number of categories for comparison save one: size. The Contractor saw, Cabinet saw and Hybrid saw are at least 52 inches long, making all three too big for a small shop. I had a Craftsman 10 inch direct drive 2.5 hp contractor table saw for over ten years; about 30 inches long. When the motor failed I looked for 6 months before I found a replacement because I can't fit today's contractor saw, let alone a cabinet or hybrid saw in my shop (laundry room in a townhouse. I found what I was looking for in Porter Cable's Double Insulated 10 inch Bench Top Table Saw (model 3812). It's called a bench top, but it's built like a contractor's saw, in fact this table saw is the same size as my old Craftsman and it has a much improved dust collection system. The next time you compare table saws please remember those of us in cubical size shops. Thank you.
Posted by Thomas Ankrum | April 20, 2008 10:57 PM
Posted on April 20, 2008 22:57