Why Setting Your Blade Parallel to the Miter Slot is IMPORTANT

I've gotten some questions lately concerning why I take the time and effort to set my table saw blade as close to dead-on parallel to the miter gauge slot as possible.  This stems from the Table Saw Set-Up video we did.  I thought I'd take the time to explain my reasoning behind it, since I didn't have a chance in the video to do so.

First off I'll have to admit that I'm a bit of a perfectionist.  Just knowing that the blade is off is enough to drive me crazy.  (I know I need help, but there's too much woodworking to do, I don't have time!)

Lately I've seen in some woodworking forums and blogs where people have said that even if your blade is off 0.0011 that it's probably close enough. After all we're just dealing with wood after all. 

Well here's my problem with that set up.  Kick back and angled cuts.

Kick back occurs when the stock is pinched between the blade and the fence.  The force of the spinning blade can throw a piece of wood back at you with incredible speed and force (trust me, I speak from experience)

If the fence is on the right side of the blade and you're ripping a board and the blade is set 0.0010 closer in on the out-feed side of the blade than the in-feed side, this could cause kick back.  Also, you'll have even more of a chance for kick back if the board's edge you have against the fence isn't jointed flat.

Now let's talk about angled cuts.  If you're using a miter gauge or a shop built table saw sled to cross cut stock and your blade isn't parallel to the miter gauge slot, you're going to have trouble.

This will be especially evident when cross cutting parts for face frames and such.  Over the length of a 3' long rail an angled cut of 0.0010 is magnified greatly.  This will make it difficult to square the face frame up to the cabinet.

One more problem I have with leaving your table saw blade that far out of alignment is:  Why not just fix it when it's pretty easy to do in the first place?  It doesn't take fancy equipment and hours of your time.  A simple magnetic base with a dial indicator and a shop built jig are all you need.  Our Table Saw Set-Up Video shows you how to do this.  And the best thing about it...

Once you get it set up, you shouldn't have to adjust it again for a long, long time.

Here's to safe and happy cuts!

-Craig Stevens