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May 15, 2008

Building a Bookcase Part II: Face Frames

Part II of our Building a Bookcase video series covers the topic of face frames.  We talk about ways to construct face frames (mortise and tenon, and pocket hole joinery) along with things to consider when figuring out what size your face frames need to be.

We'll even show you how to make sure your face frames fit your bookcase perfectly every time.

Thanks for watching!

Craig Stevens

Comments (17)

CB "Pat" McWhorter:

Thanks for the excellent video...and, I can view it now!

Joey:

Hi Craig
Nice videos, very informative. I been using pocket holes for a long time they are real time saver, esp since Kerg introduced their jigs. I use to them on a homemade jig on a drill press. keep up the good work.
Joey

Pete Jacobsen:

Three cheers for the new video format! I can actually watch now.

ralph fowler:

Craig:

New format works better on my PC, running Windows 2k and Mozilla Firefox.

Enjoy your videos!

Rick Kirk:

Much easier to play in this format. Also the quality is very good. I think your on to something.

A J Johnson:

Craig,
The new video format does not run as smoothly as the old format. The new one has a lot of starts and stops for the streaming to catch up.

Ron Edwards:

This looks terrific. What ever you did both the picture and sound are very clear.

I really enjoy your show. For some time, I've been subscribed via iTunes, but I love coming to your site to see the other things you have posted here.

Keep up your great work.

And, I shall have some occasional questions, I'm sure.

(I taught Industrial Arts for 8 years, then was a principal, then taught in Voc. Ed & Technology at Miss. State.)

--Larry

Larry Downes:

Craig, Video is much much better, Keep the videos coming. Great job. Thanks Larry

Jim:

Love the new format. Nice and clear and crisp.

Steve:

Hey! I can watch it! Thanks so much I haven't been able to up to now. Great informative video!

Joel:

Wow! Video! Thanks for changing the format -- Ithought you were sending snapshots

Steve:

I thought you said early on in the podcast that the face frame width of the stiles should be consistant with the width of the rails that show beyond your crown molding and base molding. But, when you were showing the base molding, you had no rail showing at all! ??

(WR) Craig:

Steve,

When making face frames, the general rule is to have the same exposure showing on the rails and stiles. This is just because your eye will notice small changes in the differences in width and most people like symmetry.

On a bookcase, I like the base molding to come up to about 1/4" to 1/8" shy of the bottom shelf. You could use the same exposure at the bottom as well, but I don't think it's necessary.

Your eye, when looking at the face frame of a bookcase, won't notice the change in exposure as much as if it's on the sides and top. This is because they are more at eye level.

If I did state in the video that the exposure should be the same all the way around, I meant to say only the top rail and stiles should be the same. Sometimes my mouth goes faster than my mind works!

Craig

Dave Menke:

Craig,

The video series on bookcase building is great. Every time I watch I pick up something new. One question. You talked about building the face frame, but not how you attached to the actual bookcase. Do you attach the face frame with pocket screws from the inside of the case? Or do you simply attach with glue and finish nails? Probably a simple question, but I am new at this. Thanks.

Dave

Woodworkers Resource:

Dave,

I'm glad you're enjoying the bookcase series. You could use pocket screws to attach the face frame but that would leave the screw holes visible. You could also just glue the face frame to the carcass, which I will sometimes do if the piece isn't going to be painted. In this case, since I was going to paint the bookcase, I used glue and finish nails so I wouldn't have to clamp everything up waiting for the glue to dry.

Thanks,

Craig

JemBlumsbub:

so informative, thanks to tell us.

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