Hi Craig:
Always learn something from these videos. Thanks
for your hard work.
Jerry

Jerry,

Thanks so much Jerry. I'm glad you picked something useful out of the video. It's always nice to hear when I've helped somebody.

Take care,

Craig

I can not wait for the next video. I liked the way you showed the many ways to add the fixed shelf. Thanks for all the great info. In the future could you show the dovetail way to fix the shelf. thank you for your time.

Shannon Kizer

Shannon,

Thanks for your email Shannon. The thing that is almost always true with woodworking is, there's usually several different ways to perform any given task. The tricky part is deciding which way works best for what you want it to do!

I'm glad you enjoyed the video!

Craig

For any bookcase one most consider where it's going. In most homes the base board tends to be the one thing that will keep a bookcase from being flush with the wall. If I were to build the bookcase, or any bookcase for my home I'd have to cut a notch in the back that is likely to look very ugly. Any suggestions?

Thomas,

Getting the bookcase flush with the wall will give you a more "built-in" look, but it's not necessary. In fact, the bookcases that I built in the videos, are installed in my daughter's bedroom with about 3/4" distance from the wall. I anchored them to the wall with a 3/4" x 3" x 36" filler board The filler board is placed below the top against the wall and is screwed through the top and into the filler board where it won't be seen because of the height of the cases. The baseboard in the bedroom is 3/4" think so there is a uniform gap from top to bottom.

Now, if you want the book cases to look built-in then the best thing to do would be to remove the baseboard where the cases will sit against the wall. You won't install the base molding to the cases as you build them, rather install the cases against the wall with the baseboards removed. Once installed, add the same base molding back to the wall and then work your way around the bookcases using the same molding, just as though they were part of the wall.

You may find that your walls aren't plumb so you may still end up with a gap between the wall and the bookcase. To avoid this you can install a trim piece (ex. cove molding) between the wall and the bookcase or scribe the sides of the bookcase to the wall.

In order to scribe the sides to the wall you will have to have extra material between the side and back. In order to accomplish this you will need to make the rabbit deeper for the back to sit into the sides. About an extra 1/4" should be sufficient.

Hope this helps,

Craig